day 2 Positano

We had the opportunity to sleep in a bit today.  Room service breakfast delivered around 9:30 and we feasted on the fried eggs with bacon, yogurt,coffee, espresso and fresh fruit.  We stayed in a good portion of the day due to rain, but we made the best of it: reading, napping, listening to the gentle cycles of the mediterranean storm.

 

Around four pm we decided to venture out during a lull in the rain and grab a small late lunch so we could enjoy the standard late dinners like all the locals.  Well, that break in the rain was short lived- only five minutes after we left our hotel the drizzle became a full on shower.  We had to run into a parking garage at the bottom of one of the curves in the main road winding through the town.  Luckily they had umbrellas for sale- yay! And they were all rainbow colored- yay!!!  So we proceeded back out with our giant rainbow umbrella and decided to make the best of it, popping into a few of the local stores.

 

We located the highly recommended "Bruno's" where we decided to eat dinner our last night in Positano, and meandered along the road to find one of the many beautiful hand-made ceramic stores.  This craft is the main artisinal product of this region.  Unable to resist, we purchased a brilliant hand-painted square platter with a cobalt blue background, highlighting a few lemons in the center, which may as well be the regional symbol for how beautiful and plentiful they are here.  This hand-made and painted piece will be used for many happy meals in the future of our home, and we will always keep it on display.

 

That evening we took a chance on a restaurant that had been suggested by the Italian man who worked the front desk at our B&B.  He didn't really speak a lick of english, but his smile was watrm when John or I at least attempted to communicate in Italian with him.  Here was another fabulous evening with white wine (the amalfi region, though not as globally renowned for it's wine production, I think actually provided us some of the best white varieties we had on our entire trip).  More fantastic antipasti plates for starters- I began with a great variety of more freshly grilled vegetables, and local cheese.  John began with a mixed plate of frutta di mare- seafood, and as per our dining habits we shared with eachother our plates.

Day One Amalfi Coast/ Positano

Gently being rocked in and out of sleep, I feel the train come a full stop- "Is this us?" I ask, and both without total certainty of whether we were at the Salerno station or not jumped off just as the train began moving away- our timing is the best!

Pepe, from Piano (another town along the Amalfo coast) picked us up and we were treated to the service from the "best driver in all Amalfi" by his own regard!  The drive was AMAZING.  The scenery as we hugged the hairpin curves of the perilous amalfi highway almost made you feel like you were flying.  All the drivers ar respectful of the dangers of the tight quarters, but there is no regard for personal space as they squeeze past eachother on a two-way highway only considered wide enough for one vehicle at high speeds here in America.  The motorcyclists seem to have no care for their own safety, whipping around the vehicles and the curves without ever knowing what is actually coming towards them around the bend! CRAZY!  Yet, with all this wild driving, you are transported into this other world nestled in amongst the cliffs on the mediterranean.  You feel light years away from the hustle and bustle of italy's big cities and you take in the hundreds of gardening terraces, lemons at road-side market carts as big as your head, and the moody shifts in blue of the sea.  Pepe allowed us a photo opportunity at tone of the market stands.  He also stopped the car on a bridge and let us get out to see the oldest fishing town in Amalfi- tucked back in a small, narrow cove (couldn't have been more than 150 feet across from cliff to cliff) were these cliffside homes where only a community of 100 people live now.  I think every resident was down on their private beach just below the bridge we stood on, enjoying the sunshine and gentle waves hitting their shore.

 

Pepe drops us off along the one and only driving road that curves through Positano. One of the 7 signs on this curve in the road indicates that "La Rosa Dei Venti", our B&B for the next few days is only accessible from here by foot by an arrow pointing down the stone-paved pathway through the buldings and down the stairs.  Luckily it's only about 120 paces and 15 stairs down to our quaint accomodations.  There is something absolutely wonderful about how the "kitchy" decor that we would snicker at in America seems to feel nothing but absolutely perfect in this quiet B&B.  The one thing that no one could ever take away from this place is the view!!!

 

Around 8 we decided to venture out to find dinner- ten minutes down the stone-paved pathway and stairs through other hotels/ B&Bs/ residences and we reach the beach.  We walk along and find the happiest dog in the world- we watch him as he darts out from a sea-side bar, which is closing for the evening, staright for the water.  He ives in head first, paddles around for a minute. then swims back out onto the rocky shore, he shakes out and rolls onto his back, allowing the stones to give him a good scratch.  I swear John and I both detect a smile on his face as we turn our attention away from him and back to our mission for food.  We find a little private cove with a beach that only about a dozen people could enjoy together, and I can't help myself from taking a moment to kick off my sandles to enjoy running along the water's edge.  After recovering from this moment of bliss, we climb another set of stairs and that happiest of all dogs bounds past us as if to say "If you lived here, you could take all these stairs with ease like I do."  A challenge I would delightfully submit to.

 

We finally find a great restaurant with an outdoor veranda overlooking the sea.  We split an antipasti with a sampling of local cheeses. grilled eggplant, roasted red and yellow peppers, cappicola,salami,prosciutto, and a pizza with tomato, capers, fresh ground tuna, and mozzarella on a thin, crisp crust. At the end of our meal we ask for "vino porta via"- wine for the road, and our young waiter smiles and brings us back wine in a liter- sized water bottle and tells us to enjoy!  Our hike back up the stairs to our B&B was much harder than going down to the beach- later, we would find out that from the beach to the top if the stairs along the cliff it is 900 from bottom to top give or take a few- luckily we were probably around 300 (still pretty steep I might add).  CLIMB, CLIMB, HUFF, HUFF, SIP SIP!  The wine kept us company and we laughed as we struggled on the hike up!

The Most Striking View in all of Rome

Apologies to our faithful readers for the sporadic posting...doing our best throughout the excursion with blackberry posts and spotty wifi on the computer. Regardless, this view from the top of St. Peter's dome was worth the climb.

Descent to Columbus

Has been an AMAZiNG trip, but nice to be home. USA! USA!!

St. Pietro Dome from Vatican Courtyard

Rehearsal Dinner - the boys

Sleepy Train Ride to Positano

'My name Georgio. Best fashion designer in all of Positano'

Magnificato San Pietro

Spanish Steps

Last day in Rome and Italia. Off to the Grand Finale...St. Pietro and Vatican.

Campo Fiori Square

Just next to the Piazza Navona, this square houses touristy ristorantes with some of the best people watching in the city. Here, catch Australians in sweaters, locals drinking beer deciding on which 'disco tecque' to patron, and Nebraskans (or Ohioans) in shorts. This particular eatery we settled in at is ristorante by day, enotech (wine bar) by night.

Respect

If I had ordered the 44oz bistecca, I would explode. Nice work. Man law.

First and Last Tiramisu of the Luna De Miele

Delicioso!

Pantheon Main Altar

We also have a really nice photo of the two of us on our digital cam, but no more wifi until returning to US.

Pantheon

Rainy and renovating, but still astonishing.

'St. Teresa in Ecstasy' by Bernini

One of the more powerful displays of we've witnessed on the trip, inside the small but ornate Santa Maria dell Vittoria church, this sculpture by Bernini depicts St. Teresa lying in pain next to an angel. Teresa has just been stabbed by God's arrow of fire, and the angel has just removed the arrow to watch her reaction. This instense 'sweetness of pain' was later described by St. Teresa as oneness with God in seemingly ecstatic fashion. For a 50 cent 'offerte' into a deposit box, you can 'let there be light' on the sculpture...one of the few true bargains in this city!

Discoratio

Every Roman sports buff wanted one of these to decorate his 'gymnasium'...not sure it would fit in with my tv room decor.

Roman National Museum- Boxer taking a breather.

Purchased the 4€ audio guide and was worth every penny. Took us through the empire's history starting in the throws of Augustus through 2nd century AD. All of Emperor Nero's portraits and statues were decreed 'damnatiae memoriae', hence no Nero statues to be found.

Trevi Fountain at Night

Complete with 'professional photographers' soliciting a polaroid purchase and rose peddlers.

Our third complimentary bottle of Prosecco of the honeymoon...

We are milking the 'Luna di Miele' for all its worth! Salute!

Roma Colosseo

50,000 blood thirsty Romans would have put a packed Horseshoe to shame. Funny that the politicians sponsored all Flavian Ampitheatre (Colosseum) events in order to gain favor with the masses...free is always good!

We'll miss Positano

A truly relaxed, beautiful and unique place.

Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius

Definition of a sleeping giant. Could awake at any time - short but very powerful visit to these ancient ruins en route to Rome.

Vino Gift

From Innkeeper Mario. Multa Bene!!

600AD painting in Positano's Rosary Church

Has survived fires earthquakes and God knows what else.

More Triangles

As if you weren't tired of the theme already!!!

You know you're having a good time...

When Father Tim is clapping WITH a whiskey on the rocks. No joke.

Cleveland's Finest Let us Borrow his Bike

Public Square Park

Two Happy Fathers...

Thinking 'See ya!'

Mrs. John M. Roscoe

Rainy Evening in Positano...

Makes for a good excuse to drink wine on the covered balcony and catch up on some R&R.

Ravello

Easternmost Amalfi town.

What a charmed life these locals have!

I am happy with my own hammock. They get their own private beach cove accessible only by cave (grotto). Different pace here, even in contrast to Florence and Venice.

View from our 'Libeccio Camera'

Although hidden away in Positano's 'uptown' (translation: youe legs will be sore upon arrival), our B&B comes fully equipped with a seaside view and inexpensive prosecco (champagne-like white wine) in the mini fridge.

San Pietro

The most famous (and expensive) hotel in the Positano area with legendary sea views. At 1200€ per night, that's one too many zeros for us. Striking nonetheless.

Roadside in Amalfi

Bellisimo Serra Vino

Arrivi Positano

The Biggest Triangle in Cleveland

First of many wedding photos to come on the CR blog.

Last Florentinian Dinner - Clams and Mussels. Benissimo!

Ciao Firenze - we had a bene tempa!

The top of Firenze!

Bistecco Fiorentina-Potato Encrusted Veal Chop

Wine Tour

Booked a wine tour a few months back and WOW. The Tuscan countryside is one of the most beautiful and surreal landscapes we've ever seen. Have attached some photos here, but pictures don't do it justice. In summary: lots of wine, a great local tour guide, and further confirmation we will never rent a car in Italy.

Firenze Dinner cont'd - Carni Insalata

Firenze Dinner Pic 2 - Caroline's Primi Patti

Firenze Dinner- Gnocchi (see Caroline's entry)

Best Beer ever after a balmy and uninspiring Uffizi Gallery visit.

Birth of Venus was the highlight, but we just had to take a break from the turista scene.